"That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms" (thatbastardkurtis5)
04/29/2018 at 19:15 • Filed to: None | 0 | 12 |
The car needs body work and electrical work. It needs the exhaust welded back on. It has holes in the frame behind the axle on both sides. I did not address any of those problems.
No, I bought an air cleaner and a line lock kit.
Okay, so the air cleaner I kinda needed. The 305 is still fully smogged, and I’d like to get rid of that and get an open element filter on it. Jeg’s had a nice 14x3 inch plain black one, which is what I wanted, for $40...which was perfectly reasonable. But I didn’t want to pay $10 to ship it.
Their free shipping doesn’t kick in until $100, so I considered a tachometer (mine ‘works’, but shows 3000 as idle speed and when you stand on it it goes well past 6000 to the bottom of the tach) but decided I’d go used for that. Instead I saw a nice Jeg’s “Stage Control” kit for $85, with the solenoid and switches and everything and that seemed like a good idea for my bone stock 180hp G-body.
Basically I just felt like spending a few bucks on the car. Maybe tomorrow I’ll start ripping the smog junk out of it.
yamahog
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 19:39 | 1 |
(long winded comment from the resident Monte Carloss guy incoming)
Sweet Trav
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 19:39 | 5 |
So, here’s the deal. The L69 with all of the emissions equipment, if working properly, doesn’t cost you any power. The computer controlled carb works fantastic, so long as everything is working right. A set of Edelbrock TES headers can help you out along with a catback. The CCC carb system is actually good and is better than any other carb you can put on that motor.
Theres are lots of resources, specifically Montecarloss.com that can help you.
My whole hearted and honest advice... Save for an LS swap, don’t spend any time or money trying to hop up an L69 305
Edit: you can fix your tach with a couple of resistors. http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=646206
Frame Repair
http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=220140#Post220140
Read through this guys build thread, he’s running a 383 that makes 450+ hp off the CCC system. He also has an awesome autox suspensions under it. http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=814129#Post814129
That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
> Sweet Trav
04/29/2018 at 19:46 | 0 |
That’s basically my thought in the end. I’m not going to do anything to the 305 that I can’t just move to a 350...I want to stay kinda old school, so I might stay away from an LS, but they’re hard to say no to. I’m not going to get into the 305, I’m more removing the smog just to do something (even if it doesn’t gain me anything) that doesn’t cost me any money, you know?
Sweet Trav
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 19:49 | 2 |
If you remove the wrong smog component the car wont run. The distributor uses Electronic spark control, the carb mix is computer controlled. unless you know exactly what you’re doing, I don’t recommend you remove anything.
Sweet Trav
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 19:50 | 2 |
Also here’s my LS swap http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/126188-SSLOW6-0-Build
Cost me about $3500, I could have done it cheaper if wanted to cut a few corners.
Sweet Trav
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 19:57 | 1 |
another thought, the open element filter is actually going to cost you power by pulling in hot gross air, you’ll also need to make sure the MAP sensor, and IAT sensor in the current filter carry over to your new one. You don’t need an open element filter for 180hp.
That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
> yamahog
04/29/2018 at 20:06 | 1 |
You weren’t wrong.
Sweet Trav
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 20:08 | 1 |
Not trying to rain on your parade man, i just don’t want to see anyone get over eager and cause more money/time spent than necessary. That line lock is good money spent, even stock these things did fantastic burn outs.
yamahog
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 20:11 | 0 |
I could hear the clickety clack of his hot take typing from across the living room.
That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
> Sweet Trav
04/29/2018 at 20:14 | 0 |
It’s all good. I mean the thing made 180hp 30 years ago, I really don’t care about its power output at all...if it looks and sounds good, that’s about the best I can hope for from the 305. I’ll take a look at it tomorrow and see what I think of removing the smog...worst case I turn my attention to the line lock first and just roast the tires until I get a 350 in there, haha.
Sweet Trav
> That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
04/29/2018 at 20:18 | 1 |
What I would do if i was you... I’d get a 97-2002 Vortec 350 from a wrecking yard for a few hundred bucks, grab a vortec style spread bore intake, and maybe toss in a baby aftermarket camshaft that wont upset the computer and run it. Less than $1000 and you’re probably making close to double the hp.
That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms
> Sweet Trav
04/29/2018 at 21:21 | 0 |
I’m secretly but not secretly hoping somebody rear ends the shit out of my Tahoe (or better, my wife’s Escalade as long as she’s not driving it at the time) and solves my engine problem for me. A stock 5.3 would make more power than I’d ever get out of the 305, the 6.0 in the Caddy obviously even more so.